Well I now have been in Guatemala for a week and quite the week its been. So far I have climbed and overnighted on a Volcan Actatenango (3976 m or 13,041 ft), been on numerous tours in various city thanks to some contacts. Hiked around the lake district (Lago de Atitlán). Traveled on numerous chicken buses with another Canadian couple (one who is currently living here). But today takes the cake. Today, I had to fight off a swarm pick pockets in the Xela market.
So far I have only been ripped off once on this trip. Talking a ferry in Lago de Atitlán I was charged twice. it wasn´t a big deal as it worked out to about $5 USD, but still it was the prinicple. Anyway, I was very lucky today that I did not lose my passport, wallet and iPod.
We were on our way out of Xela (Quetzaltenango) when we had to cross the market to get to the chicken buses (the insane, but cheap local buses). Aw we were progressing we caught a bus trying to make its way through the market at the same time. This was bad news as we couldn't move fast. Then all of a sudden we were surrounded by a mass of people.
Now I was somewhat prepared for this incident as I have a decoy wallet that I keep a little cash in, but today I decided to keep my visa in it and since I was in a rush when we were leaving the hotel so I also had my iPod and passport with in my pockets short pockets (not a bright idea). Now these are actually mountain biking shorts with zipper pockets in a funny place so I thought they would be hard to break into... apparently not.
Anyway, as the swarm commensed it just seemed like it got really busy all of a suddent and I am not sure what made me reach down at the moment I did, but as I reached down noticed that BOTH my pockets were unzipped and I found a hand in one of the pockets trying to lift my wallet. I grabbed the hand and my wallet then started yelling "Fuck You" as loudly as I could. As I clamped down on my pockets I suddenly got rushed again. It was a little overwhelming. Then it felt like someone was trying to do something to my pack so I freaked out even more and started spinning around.
Luckily for me I am much larger than most the people here and I started knocking people over left and right with my embarrasingly large back pack (camping gear for climbing mountains). While large packs are generally suck for traveling, this time I think the large pack saved me because as I was knocking the pick pockets over this gave me enough room to make my escape.
In the end I somehow escaped with all my crap (as far as I can tell). Now don't get me wrong Guatemala has been a blast soo far. You just have to mind your P's and Q's, especially if you are dumb enough to buy a blindingly white cowboy hat and wear it in the market (hey all the old men wear these hats, I just wanted to fit in). I might as well had a "Dumb Gringo" sign hanging around my neck.
Comments
I live in Panajachel, near Lake Atitlan. Sorry to hear about your mishap in the Xela market. I came to Guatemala, as a tourist for 30 years before I moved here 5 years ago. I have never been robbed. From what I can gather, most of the tourist robberies are committed by foreigners. Because of the natural beauty, and ambience of the place, lots of people want to move here permanently, but cannot afford it. Tourist are an easy target, because the robbers look like tourists.
I hope you'll check out http://www.atitlan.net , and find lots of photos and videos of the lovely people who live here.
Looking back on it 2 years later, it was not a big deal. These things happen, really, what do you expect when you are tall ghost white fellow traipsing through a market place with a giant backpack. Even though you don't intend to you convey wealth where many people struggle to survive. Where many tourists come there because they think they can get cheap things and push the local sellers to keep lowering the price. I was just freaked out at the time because I nearly lost my passport, after being so vigilant earlier on in the trip.
Despite my one-off experience I would gladly go back to Guatemala again... a bit wiser of course.
Anyway, I had a lot more to say about the tourists and gringo culture there, I was going to write more about it rather than leaving it hanging like I have here but life got busy, so what can you say!