Aerial shot of Hornby Island

There is just something about Hornby Island that is hard to describe. If you know me personally, in any sort of manner, then you probably know the love affair I have had with the Gulf Island ever since my first visit in the late 90's (previous verbage).

I remember the time fondly. I had just gotten into mountain biking, just owned my first car (I no longer own a car) and itching to travel to some XC races when I came across a flyer for the mystical for the now defunct Hornby Island Bike Fest put on by imfamous Tig Cross and friends.

It was a bit of an epic to get there, 3 ferry rides in total, but as soon as I got there it was love at first sight. The trails were just plain fun (bermed and fast, dull by todays big huck standards), the beaches were amazing and the free store (recycling depot) was just, totally, like in the moment man. Needless to say the former hippy commune warmed my heart right down to the subcockles. Ever since that moment, when I can, I make a yearly pilgrimage.

Like all years I was a bit pressed for time. I always ride and I am bad at planning ferries. And a lot of planning is required. First from Horseshoe bay to Naniamo. Then after you make your way up Vancouver Island (about 95 km) to Buckley Bay so you can catch your second ferry from Buckley bay to Denman Island. Afterwards you cross Denman so you can catch the last ferry from Denman to Hornby. Now the last one can be a bit of an issue as the last sailing is at 6:30 pm. While there is a Buckley Bay to Denman ferry at 6 PM, you are hooped because you don't then have enough time to ride across the island to catch the Hornby Island. Therefore you must catch the 5 PM ferry at Buckley Bay.

Last year I missed the all important last ferry Hornby and ended up staying the night Denman. A few years before that I caught the 6 PM Buckley Bay ferry and begged for a ride across Denma. Anyway, as always I was behind schedule when I got off the ferry at Naniamo. It was after 2:20 PM, that left me less than 3 hours to make the 5 PM ferry. Yikes!

I had to time trial the 95 km section. I was flying and it hurt like a bugger, but I made it with a minute or two to spare. I didn't take enough quick food to eat while I rode as I had originally planned to stop to get food. This means I had to dig deep to keep up the sustained. This wiped me for the entire next day, as I basically just slept on the beach. In case any of you wish to make this ride, I decided to prepare the ferry schedules for you:

Ferry_Schedule.pdf

Learn from my mistakes... give yourself plent of time.

Hanging at the Purple Feet Retreat

Afterwards my time there, as always, was awesome. I meet my friends who had rented the Purple Feet Retreat for the weekend. All in all pretty nice digs. Most of the people there I have not met before and are from more of the music/writer circle than bike riding nuts but we all got along and had a good time discussing such topics as the meaning of the universe followed by beer and a marathon of twin peak videos. Its an old series but man its addicting.

Anyway, this is what makes Hornby Island an interesting place to spend time, there is often a diverse array of interesting individuals. Some look way out while others appear deceptively conservative. Either way I somehow have a nack for seaking out these individuals from the mass of tourists that appear in the summer time. I find it a bit annoying that the popularity of Hornby has grown in the last decade, but whatever I got and had some fun.

When we weren't singing, drinking or watch odd movies I made sure played on the beach, swim in the ocean, head out for a nature walk or two out at Helliwell Park. All in all a good time. If you don't believe me, check out the photos, they pretty much speak for themselves.

Photo Album

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Samples
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Getting There Yourself

Normally I usually go on adneausium about my adventures, but this time I thought I would also try and relate some useful information about the trip for any of you wishing to make the journey.

Why You Should Ride There

No doubt, if you go you shouldn't drive a car. Why? Quite simply it is in keeping with the ideals of the area. The residents have been marching to their own drum for a long time. For example, since 1970's they have been recycling/reclaiming something like 70% of their trash [ref]. People here are not your typical crast city consumers.

In doing so, if you wish to have any hope chatting up any of the locals the fact you rode there will put you in much better standings than if you drove there. I have had numerous locals chat me up on the ferrie ride over, since most of them are Artisans, or otherwise self made tends to lead to interesting conversations. Otherwise, for the most part the locals can come off as aloof, distant and even a hair arrogant.

Cycling also makes sense for a logistical standpoing, you need to take three, yes, three ferries to get there. Taking a car across that many ferries is not only expensive but it is a major pain in the ass, especially when you get to the smaller Gulf Island ferries (Buckley Bay to Denman Island and Denman Island to Hornby) which often run at hour intervals, take few passengers and in the Denman Island to Hornby Island stops running at 6 PM on most days. If you plan your trip cycling will be much less of a head ache.

Things to Keep In Mind

With time comes changes, and Hornby Island has undergone many changes in the last decade, which is mainly due to the influx of tourists. Any time a location like Hornby is featured in the Georgia Straight, you know its gonna get slammed by tourists. With that you should realize that

1. Yes, it has changed. Get over it.
2. It can be crowded (by old school Hornby Standards) during peak summer time with swarminb masses of school aged brats and soccer moms (again by Old School Hornby Sandards).
3. You may actually see more than 20 people at Big Tribune Bay.
4. The off season is often the best time to visit. Think spring or fall. Often earlier fall can be warmer which is a must to fully enjoy the beaches therefore september is often the best time to go.
5. When travelling leave lots of time to catch your connecting ferry. Again to help you out here is a ferry schedules:
   

   Ferry_Schedule.pdf

The Trip Itinerary

The trip can be roughly broken down into 3 sections if you are heading from the the Vancouver/Lower Mainland area:

• Section A: Getting to Horseshoe Bay, getting on the Naniamo ferry. It is about 30 km from East Vancouver. If you don't want to ride you can always take the bus (translink.bc.ca)
• Section B: Riding from Naniamo to Buckley Bay, about 95 km. Taking the ferry to Denman Island. Take the OLD Island highway (the follow ocean side route sign) as it is much more peaceful than the new Island Highway. That said the new highway is more level and therefore faster.
• Section C: Riding Across Denman Island, and catching the Hornby Ferry. Warning: last sailing is often at 6:30 PM. The ride is short, maybe 30 minutes with one killer hill. Follow the signs you can't miss.
• Section D: Making your way across Hornby Island. This is farily trivial except for the fact the food co-op closes at 6 pm as well. If you catch the last ferry be prepared to have your own meal or eat out at one of the resturants.

Remember to give yourself lots of time and check the ferry schedules. Funny I made up this handy sheet for you:

Ferry_Schedule.pdf

Map of the Trip

To show you what this trip looks like I have made a map of it. Note that google map sucks and it sends you along the new Island highway. Take the OLD Island highway (the follow ocean side route sign) as it is much more peaceful.

Realized Itinerary:
As a not of interest I have included my actual travel times from East Vancouver. Note that I could have cut more time out of my trip by planning a little better.

Trip Itinerary (pdf)